We’re here to share what we know — but don’t take it as medical advice. Talk to your medical provider if you have questions.
Most of us have experienced acne at some point, but knowing what kind of acne you’re dealing with is essential to finding an effective treatment. For blackheads, following a skincare routine and applying an over-the-counter topical cream will often do the trick.
But something like cystic acne, which forms deep inside the pores, may need a prescription from a dermatologist. This guide explains the different types of acne, its causes, and how acne progresses. We’ll also explain how to treat breakouts and share some ingredients that work for mild, moderate, and severe acne.
Types of acne
Acne vulgaris is a chronic skin condition that begins with clogged pores. It manifests in many ways—everything from non-inflammatory blackheads to inflammatory cysts can fall under the acne umbrella. Acne types include blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, and cysts (or nodules).
The differences between the acne types depend on inflammation and whether the blemish is pus-filled, at the skin’s surface, or buried deep in the dermis. Research shows that some degree of inflammation is involved at every stage of acne vulgaris.¹ But most dermatology providers separate acne into two categories: non-inflammatory and inflammatory. Non-inflammatory acne includes open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
Inflammatory lesions include what most people think of as pimples (papules and pustules), as well as nodules or cysts that form deep inside clogged pores. Here are the differences between the various types of acne:
Non-inflammatory acne
Non-inflammatory acne forms open and closed comedones that aren’t red or painful to the touch. There are two types:
- Whiteheads: Small clogged pores that look like little white bumps because of trapped oil and dead skin cells.Whiteheads are closed comedones because they’re not open to the skin’s surface. Instead, they form a white, pus-filled head (hence the name!).
- Blackheads: Small clogged pores that turn black because the trapped oil and dead skin cells are exposed to the air. Blackheads are called open comedones because they’re exposed to the skin’s surface.
Inflammatory acne
Inflammatory acne manifests as red, painful, inflamed lesions that vary in size.
Smaller lesions are called papules and pustules, while larger lesions are cysts or nodules. Here are the differences:
- Papules: Tender bumps with redness and swelling caused by inflammation. Papules are usually less than 5 millimeters in size and don’t form a head.
- Pustules: “Squeezable” inflamed pimples with a visible central core of pus (that white sludge most people know all too well!).Pustules are usually raised and can be anywhere from 1-5 millimeters in size.
- Nodules: Large, firm, reddish lumps that extend deeper than a papule and are often painful. Nodules feel hard and almost knot-like to the touch. They can last for weeks and may require a dermatologist or dermatology provider’s help to treat.
- Cysts: These are painful, under-the-skin pimples (sometimes referred to as blind pimples or invisible pimples) that may take a long time to go away.
